We depart the campsite and commence the 12 miles to Tyndrum. Not too bad on the rain front this morning, more of a lingering mist, and some moody scenery as we follow the river along Glen Falloch. There is both a road and a railway line running through the glen but it is remarkably quiet. We encounter for the first time the phenomenon of a "sheep creep" as it is named on our Ordnance Survey map. This being a very low and narrow space through which to pass beneath the railway. Someone has helpfully placed a laminated sign warning that the roof actually gets lower as you go through. Neither of us are tall and it is still quite a stoop. Out the other side we cross the main road and begin to climb the hillside using the old military road which much of the West Highland Way follows. As we can gain height we pass through woodland before descending, crossing the road again and then following the river Fillan into Strathfillan. Around here we encounter a sign for the "Tyndrum massage" for which one must call or text Pat. An information board tells us that this part of Scotland receives an annual rainfall 4 times that of Edinburgh. Visitors to Edinburgh often complain Scotland receives a lot of rain but that's because they come in August (for the Fringe) which can be a pretty wet month. In general, the East of Scotland gets less rain... to get wet, go West! (From experience I recommend you don't mention this weather observation while standing in a lift in Glasgow - J.) We have a rest on a bench beside St Fillan's priory where there is a battered old sign telling of the exploits of St Fillan an Irish monk who brought Christianity to this area of Scotland. I also remember seeing his cave in Pittenweem when walking the Fife Coastal Path a few years ago. Jennie has begun to speed ahead, she's bored of my tales about monks, probably. Or maybe this is the point where she realises there are fish and chips to be had in Tyndrum and it isn't that far now.
Matthew
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